Shaker Side Table Project Tests Joinery Skills

Popular Woodworking magazine has published a detailed guide for building a Shaker side table. The project serves as an introduction to various joinery methods, from mortise-and-tenon to hand-cut dovetails.

One of the main reasons for revisiting this project is its instructional value in joinery. Whether a novice or a seasoned woodworker, the build helps hone skills essential to the craft. The design follows the magazine's previous Shaker daybed project from November 2020.

Turning the Legs

The process begins with four turning blanks, oversized in length by about one inch. The layout includes transitions where the square top meets an ogee profile and a subtle taper extending to the leg's bottom. A parting tool and calipers designate the layout.

A spindle gouge creates the ogee profile from the top, moving deliberately with the grain to prevent tear-out. After establishing the profile, a roughing gouge works the subtle taper from top to bottom. The step finishes with a scraper and light sanding.

Mortising and Joinery

For the mortises, the process breaks into two steps. First, a drill press establishes the depth and removes the bulk of the material. Second, a bench chisel pares the walls, followed by a mortise chisel. This is repeated for all apron and stretcher mortises.

The two front legs feature a lapped, or half-lap, dovetail joint on top. This involves sawing the cheeks on the sockets down to the layout lines. A bench chisel makes a small incision at the scribe line before removing material from the end grain. Once mortising is complete, the waste left from turning is cut from the legs.

Constructing Aprons and Stretchers

All necessary parts are milled to final dimensions, yielding three aprons and two stretchers. Using a table saw, the shoulders are cut on all three aprons and both stretchers. After adjusting the fence, the cheeks are cut.

The board is rotated perpendicular to the fence to cut the short-end shoulders on both sides. The fence is reset again to waste out the middle section, creating the twin tenon on the aprons. A quarter-inch groove is then cut on the top of all three aprons and the top stretcher. For the stretchers, the half-lap dovetail tails are cut using a hand saw.

Assembly and Drawer Construction

A dry assembly is recommended before gluing to ensure proper joint fit. The table is assembled in stages for level and square results. The back and front assemblies are created first.

Once these assemblies are dry, the two side aprons are introduced. Drawer cleats are then added to the inside of each left and right apron, scabbed on with wood glue as the grain runs parallel.

The drawer uses methods similar to the half-lap dovetail. Tails are created on the drawer sides, which then serve as templates to lay out the sockets on the drawer front. Cheek cuts are made down to the scribe line, with waste removal completed using a sharp bench chisel and mallet.

The drawer back receives an oversized through-dovetail. The tail is created on the drawer back first, which then templates the socket locations. Material is wasted out with a fret or coping saw, and shoulders are pared with a bench chisel. After checking the fit, a quarter-inch groove is created on both drawer sides and the front. The drawer front has a stopped groove, initiated with a drill press pilot hole and finished at a router table.

Creating the Tabletop

The design opts for a distinctive top rather than a traditional square Shaker one. A rectangular blank is cut to final dimensions. A bevel is created on the bottom and all four sides using a low-angle Jack plane, with shearing cuts at a 45-degree angle to prevent tear-out on the end grain.

A template with an arc on all four sides is made and attached to the top with double-sided tape. The subtle curve is cut at the band saw. With the template still attached, the edges are cleaned up at the router using a pattern bit.

**Final Fitting and Finishing**

Button tabs are created to attach the top. The groove previously cut into the inside of each apron and the top stretcher houses these tabs, allowing for seasonal movement of the tabletop. The screw holes on the tabs are oversized so the threads only engage with the top.

For drawer fitting, runners are inserted after the cleats are installed. A reveal of about 1/32 inch is left on all four sides of the drawer front. Stop blocks are installed inside the back apron to account for the quarter-inch recess of the drawer. Paraffin wax is added to the contact area for smooth operation.

For the finish, milk paint is applied to the legs and drawer knob, a common Shaker application noted for its intense color depth and muted sheen. The magazine states it is "touted for its rugged and long-lasting durability." A liberal coat of paste wax is applied over the paint and buffed out. A pre-catalyzed lacquer is applied to the tabletop for a durable, moisture-inhibiting finish.