Versatile Finger-Joint Cabinet Project

A woodworker from Popular Woodworking has built a versatile finger-joint cabinet. The project, which serves as a whiskey cabinet, began as a personal shop build to store tea and coffee away from a mischievous cat. This finger-joint cabinet is versatile enough to be utilized in any room in the house, and packs in a lot of great woodworking techniques.

This cabinet features finger-joint construction at the corners. The builder considers it a great-looking joint that is less common than dovetails but can be cut using various methods. The original version was made from quartersawn white oak, but the featured cabinet uses red oak from the builder's personal stash, which displayed unexpected character.

Finger Joint Case Construction

Construction starts with milling the case stock. For air-dried material, the builder recommends milling in stages to account for potential warping. The finger joints are the focal point, cut with 1/4-inch spacing and 1/4-inch wide fingers. The builder used a Shaper Origin but notes multiple methods are possible. A proper dry fit is essential to ensure the joints are snug but not tight, with space for glue, and to check the case is square.

Grooves for the sliding door track are cut into the top and a shelf, which can be done at the table saw. A rabbet is also cut along the back edge of the top and bottom pieces to accommodate a shiplap back.

Shelf and Divider Joinery

The shelf is attached to the case sides via twin through-tenons, which are wedged for a mechanical lock. The builder forms the mortises by drilling out waste at the drill press and cleaning up with a chisel. Tenons are cut to match, with kerfs added for the wedges. Accuracy is less critical here, as the builder states the wedges will take up a lot of slop.

Stopped dadoes are then cut in the shelf and the underside of the top for vertical dividers. The builder uses a router with MDF fences for this operation. The dividers themselves receive a through-dado for a horizontal divider, and their ends are notched to fit the rounded ends of the stopped dadoes.

Assembly and Finishing

Assembly begins with the divider sub-assembly. For the main case, one side is laid flat, and the shelf and bottom are installed. The top and divider are installed together by tilting the top like a hinge, slipping the divider into place, and then closing it. The second side is then added, and the whole case is clamped, taking care not to introduce twist.

The back is made from shiplap slats, rabbeted on opposite edges, and installed after finishing. Plywood is noted as a perfectly acceptable alternative. The door is a simple frame with rails and stiles joined with loose tenons, featuring a rabbet for a panel. The builder used rice paper from a Japanese screen for contrast. Tongues are cut on the door to fit into the case grooves, allowing it to slide into place.

For a finish, the builder used a shop-made hardwax oil blend of spar varnish, mineral spirits, linseed oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax. It is brushed on, allowed to soak, and then buffed after 15 to 20 minutes. The cabinet is hung using a 1/4-inch hardwood French cleat.

The builder concludes that it is a straightforward project with a strong visual payoff, easy to build but detailed enough to stand out.